Rum

 

for Chef Brenda Anderson

 

Chris Black

September 16, 2002
 


History

To understand the growth and popularity of rum is to follow the development of the sugar trade and the process of making crystallized sugar from cane.  Sugar cane came to the West Indies from the East Indies by way of China, to India, to Persia and then Europe.  It was first introduced to the Americas by Christopher Columbus in 1493 on his second voyage to the West Indies, having brought it from the Canary Islands.  Similarly the Portuguese performed the same experiment in Brazil.

 

Europeans came to discover that sugar cane flourished in the Indies unlike any other part of the world.  There was an enormous European demand for crystallized sugar and hundreds of colonies were established in the West Indies, Central and South America by various countries in the next 100 years.

 

To process sugar from cane, the cane is crushed to extract its juice and then boiled.  The boiled cane juice will create huge chunks of crystallized sugar.  What was left was a sweet-tasting runoff called “melazes” by the Spanish, taking its root from the Spanish word for honey, “miel”.  This substance became known as molasses to the English.  It was not long until sugar mill operators discovered that this run-off, once left in the sun, would ferment.  Soon it was accepted as a rough distilled drink.  By 1650, Kill Devil or Rumbullion was distilled and sold.

 

Rum, as it became known, became a popular island drink.  Its popularity grew along shipping lines and was sold at a discount to naval ships to attract sailors to port and arguably to keep the sailors in port a bit longer for trade and protection.  Popularity grew particularly along English trade routes to the Americas and back to England where it actually surpassed gin and the most commonly consumed liquor among its people for a time.  By 1730, it had become a staple of the British Navy.  Each seaman was issued a half-pint daily ration of 160 proof rum.  They were to mix it in a 1:1 ratio to create was became known as “grog”.  Incidentally, this was a staple of the British Navy up until 1969.

 

Rum was exported to North America, but later un-distilled molasses to avoid British restrictions in trade of spirits among colonies.  New England would distill the molasses to rum and sell the product back to England or to Africa.  In Africa, the ships would trade rum and cash for slaves that could work the fields in the growing sugar plantations.  In the West Indies, the slaves would be sold for cash which then was used to purchase molasses for export to New England.  This cycle became known as the second Triangle Trade of the 17th and 18th century.  This trade cycle was not broken until the United States Revolutionary War.

 

The disruption of the rum trade decreased its popularity in Europe as did the invention of extracting sugar from beets in the 19th century.  Rum production continued, but it largely was reduced to the regions where sugar cane was farmed.  Rum saw resurgence in the second half of the 20th century with the growth of tourism.  As tourists flocked to tropical destinations, they brought back a steady rise in popularity of rum-based drinks. 

 

Today rum is attracting the attention of lovers of complex liqueurs.  Aged Rums are gaining new standing among consumers of single malt Scotch whiskies, Wines, Armagnacs, and small-batch Bourbons who are learning to appreciate the subtle complexities of these Rums. The rums of Guyana and Jamaica have a particular appeal for Scotch whisky drinkers, while the subtle and complex rhums of Martinique and Guadeloupe mirror the flavor profiles of the top French brandies in Cognac and Armagnac.

                                                                                                         

Types of Rum

Rum production, much like many distillation operations, is at least a two-step process.  It is first distilled and then fermented.  Most all rums have the same appearance and flavor at the end of distillation as it creates a clear and colorless liquid.  It is the handling of fermentation that will create the characteristics of the rum such as its taste, aroma and mouth feel.

 

There is no central body that regulates rum production or maintains quality standards.  Typically standards of quality and production are maintained by each geographic source of production, usually the island or country of source.  Presented below are the general guidelines of production agreed upon by most nations.  Regional and cultural bias is outlined later in this report.

 

Light Rum is highly rectified (purified and blended).  Traditionally it can ferment from one day to a couple weeks and will age for only six months sometimes spending a short time in very old oak barrels to give the product a little roundness.  It is clear and usually has minimal flavors however some distillers are developing premium white rums.  Historically light rums came from the southern West Indies islands of Barbados, Trinidad, and Puerto Rico.

 

Dark (or Golden or Amber) Rum will age anywhere from 3 to 12 years, usually in oak barrels.  This does not create its darker color however.  Its rich color is caused by the introduction of caramel or molasses after distillation.  It is more aromatic and richer in flavor.  Dark Rum traditionally comes from the French islands of Jamaica, Haiti and Martinique.

 

Spiced Rum is rum that has been infused with spices or fruit in fermentation and can be light, golden or dark.  These varietals are traditionally not for the connoisseur, and are used in rum punches.

 

Fruit Rum is a recent addition to distillers’ production with the increase in popularity of fruit-infused liquors.  Watch this one to grow in years to come but for now it is best left for desserts.

 

Añejo and Age-Dated Rums are aged, blended rums.  The bottle will reflect the youngest rum used in the blend.  Some French age-dated rhums (rums) will go far as to vintage date their creation.  Another popular varietal in this category is Rhum Vieux from Martinique which is compared to high-quality French brandies.

Regional Bias in Rum Production and Tastes

As previously stated, standards for production and quality are often left to the country of origin.  The popularity of rum has led for most large producers to develop new varietals that extend beyond their traditional production, for example Mount Gay Distilleries in Barbados produces a premium white rum and sugar cane brandy now for export.  In the information that is provided below, this report will outline traditional rum production tastes, varietals and history.

 

Barbados, aside from being home to the oldest rum producer in the world Mount Gay in 1663, is known for its light and sweetish rums.  Cuba produces light and crisp rums that unfortunately cannot be imported to the United States.  The Dominican Republic has a reputation for its full-bodied and aged rums.  Puerto Rico produces an assortment of inexpensive golden and light rums.  They maintain a basic standard of aging - 3 years for dark rum and 1 year for light rum.  The United States and British Virgin Islands produce a dry and light series of rums that also serve as the base for Bay Rum, an aftershave.

 

Haiti and Martinique produce medium, complex and heavy rums.  These former French colonies will also produce rums directly from sugarcane juice. There is also a thriving rum/moonshine industry to support the voodoo religious trade.  Jamaican rums are dark and naturally ferment from direct exposure to air for up to three weeks.  Fermentation will then continue with the addition of molasses and oak barrel fermentation of a minimum of 5 years.  Interestingly the Jamaicans have developed their own classification of rums that range from light to full-flavored.

 

Most rum in South America has the name “Aguardiente de Cana.”  Guyana creates a popular, dark, medium body rum called Demeraran.  It has a high alcohol content of 151 proof and can be aged up to 25 years.  It is considered to be as flavorful as a single-malt scotch.  It is commonly blended with other lighter rums for sale.  Brazil develops a rum varietal from the unaged cane spirit Cachaça (ca·sha·sa). Venezuela produces respected golden and dark rums.

 

Indonesia produces Batavia which is made by introducing rice cakes and molasses during fermentation.  It is then aged in on the island of Java for 3 years and then shipped to Holland for further aging.

 

United States production of rums is typically light, inexpensive rums produced in the south with Carribean and fruity names for marketability.  While Canada has an unusual 300 year old tradition of trading salted fish for a Jamaican dark rum called Screech.

 

European countries blend rums from the West Indes for their tastes.  For example, Germany imports heavy, dark Jamaican rum and mixes it with a neutral spirit at a ratio of 1:19 to produce Rum Verschnitt (called Inlander Rum in Austria).

 

In Asia, rum production follows sugar production.  White and gold rums are produced predominantly in the Philippines and Thailand and Australia.

 

 

Colonial Trade around 1750

 

Note the flow of the historical triangular trade routes.  Considered to be the second largest triangle trade route, distilled rum from New England was sold to the African coast (1) for slaves.  The slaves in turn were transported to the islands of the Caribbean (2).  The cash made in the sale of slaves to the sugar fields were used to purchase molasses to be sold in the distilleries of New England (3).

Mojito

A light Caribbean drink with bright colors and flavor.

7-10

each

fresh mint leaves

1

teaspoon

simple syrup

1

ounce

light rum

to taste

 

Squeezed fresh lime juice

4-6

ounces

Club soda

 

Yield: 1 Drink

 

1.      Place about 7 mint leaves in the base of an 8 oz glass with simple syrup

2.      Muddle the mint leaves and the simple syrup in a glass with a spoon. 

3.      Add crushed ice and light rum and lime juice. 

4.      Fill the rest of glass with club soda. Garnish with sprig of mint.


West Indian Peas and Rice

 

4

ounces

salt beef or pork, cut into small dice.

2

tablespoons

butter

6

each

chives, chopped

½

teaspoon

dried thyme

½

teaspoon

marjoram

½

teaspoon

hot red pepper, minced

1

each

onion, small dice

2

each

cloves garlic, minced

1

tablespoon

Worcestershire Sauce

1

tablespoon

gold rum

8

ounces

green pigeon peas (drained)

1

cup

rice

2

cups

water

to taste

 

Salt

 

Yield: 5 servings

           

1.      Soak the salt meat in water to remove excess salt.

2.      Fry the meat in the butter with the chives, thyme, marjoram, hot pepper, onion and garlic for about 5 minutes.

3.      Add the Worcestershire sauce, rum, peas, rice and water.

4.      Adjust seasoning to taste, bring to the boil, cover tightly, reduce the heat and simmer for 20-25 minutes, or until the rice is cooked and the water is absorbed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*text of the procedure has not been altered from the source material; however the text has been formatted to fall within CCA guidelines.

Rum Punch Chicken

 

3

pounds

chicken pieces

2

tablespoon

vegetable oil

1

teaspoon

salt

1/8

teaspoon

black pepper

3/4

cup

light corn syrup

1/2

cup

light rum

1

dash

Tabasco hot pepper sauce

¼

cup

lime juice

1

tablespoon

cornstarch

1-2

teaspoon

grated lime peel

 

Yield:  4-6 servings

 

1.      Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan and fry the chicken until golden brown. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2.      Mix together the corn syrup, the rum, the Tabasco and the lime juice.

3.      Spoon 3 tablespoons of the mixture over the chicken.

4.      Cover and cook on a low heat for 40 minutes.

5.      Remove the chicken to a serving dish and keep it warm.

6.      Add the cornstarch to the remainder of the syrup mixture and stir it into the pan, stirring constantly until the sauce is thick, about 6 minutes.

7.      Spoon the sauce over the chicken and garnish with the grated lime peel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*text of the procedure has not been altered from the source material; however the text has been formatted to fall within CCA guidelines.

Bibliography

 

Ayala, Luis K. The Rum Experience.  Rum Runner Press, 2001.

 

Kerr, W. Park. The El Paso Chile Company Rum & Tiki Cookbook. William Morrow & Co Paper, 2000.

 

Moreley, Laurel-Ann. Cooking with Caribbean Rum.  Caribbean Publishing, 1999.

 

Parry, J.H., Sherlock, Philip and Maingot, Anthony. A Short History of the West Indies: Fourth Edition. Macmillan Carribean, 1987.

 

Unknown (2002). History of Cocktail.  History of Rum.  Retrieved September 14, 2002 from the World Wide Web:

http://www.cocktailtimes.com/history/rum/

 

Ditky, Alan.  Tastings.  Spirits: Rum.  Retrieved September 14, 2002 from the World Wide Web:

http://www.tastings.com/spirits/rum.html

 

National Geographic Maps [CD-ROM]. 1998